The Coping Foot is very compact. You can saw very close to other obstacles. Do a sink cutout up against a back splash for instance or cut a bottom plate next to a stud. Any big scribing job is much easier with a Coping Foot because you can back bevel at will without making any adjustments to an adjustment screw. Finish carpenters use the jig saw mostly for back beveling irregular lines, and so the Coping Foot becomes the ideal base for the jig saw. Many carpenters never change back to a flat base unless they need to scroll.
The Coping Foot is formed from 14 ga. plated steel. The coping foot also has a 1/4" spacer that will be needed on some brands of jig saws such as DeWalt 321 & 323 to prevent the mounting screw from bottoming. Other jig saws may need the spacer for the coping foot to clear the guide bearing.
Includes coping foot, 1/4" spacer & instructions.
When to cope? All standard inside corners for crown molding and trim are best/easiest mitered/beveled on both ends for the best fit. (Glue all joints as you go). However there are conditions that warrant making a coped joint. When making a 90° turn in the plane of the ceiling the crown spring angle changes by the amount the ceiling slopes (see Chapter 5). If your turn in the plane of the ceiling is a 45° turn (i.e. a 135° or 225° corner) the spring angle changes by 25% of the ceiling slope ± depending on the type of transitional turn being made. Because of the change in the crown spring angle for ceiling turns, it is possible to have two different spring angles for your crown that meet at and inside corner. This corner of course requires coping.
Please note that the new Bosch 1590 and 1591 and all Porter Cable models are NOT compatible with the Coping Foot. The Coping Foot will not fit these models.